As temperatures drop
and the nights begin to draw in, London Fashion Week comes at just the right
moment. Whilst it seems counter
intuitive to show Spring/Summer collections just as winter is approaching, we
are at least comforted in the knowledge that summer will come again and we can already begin to fantasize about next
year’s wardrobe.
The label which
captured perfectly the light and airy optimism of English Summer evenings was Burberry
Prorsum. Pastel shades and flowery clutches gave a dusky romantic feel to
Christopher Bailey’s latest collection for the label. But emphasis must be
placed on its ‘Englishness’. What’s an English summer without rain and thus
what’s a Burberry collection without trenches? The standout number was of soft lilac lace,
drawn in tight at the waist by a lavender belt. Bailey also embraced oversized
coats (a trend which I absolutely love) in pale pastels, greys and even a
maroon. Grey sweaters were thrown over sheer midi skirts and the impression of
a relaxed, rainy evening was complete.
Sheer skirts, pastel shades and floral clutches at Burberry Prorsum
Differing drastically
to Burberry’s quiet romanticism was Tom Ford’s fiercely intense show, which
spoke of nothing but drama, drama, Drama. In an interview with British Vogue he
explained that his vision for the collection was “a woman who could break your
neck with her thighs” and in these clothes his vision is certainly realised.
Entire outfits in tan leather are not for the faint hearted and neither are
Fords’ show stopping mini dresses. A strong and powerful modern woman is what’s
demanded. Because these dresses really are SPECTACULAR, skin tight, mega short,
high necked, scaled in sparkles, the reptilian/animalistic vibe is undeniably
sexy and somewhat intimidating.
Spectacular
clothes for the strong modern woman at Tom Ford
Elsewhere, in New
York Marchesa had us in raptures over their fairy-tale dresses. Redolent of frolicking
dryads and evil fairies the show was nothing less than enchanting. A fortnight
later in Milan, Emilio Pucci re-embraced a tribal theme eclectically fused with
Moroccan street wear and Francesco Scognamiglio did florals the right way, pale
and pretty, perfect inspiration for when the seasons begin to turn once again.
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| Emilio Pucci combined tribal prints with street style |
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| Frolicking dryads at Marchesa |
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| Pale and pretty florals at Scognamiglio |
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| Marchesa's Dark Fairy |
By Annabel Kiddy
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